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MATETE MARTINI + CONCERIA PRESOT RESIDENCY  




14 December 2023 Polimi Guest Talk! 


WAKEUP! 2nd edition, A+mani project by Politecnico di Milano School of Design presents an initiative involving designers and production entities in the fields of fashion, design, and art




Matete Martini presents protectively. 

second skin to ourself /
leather architecture / sound
with Conceria Presot

A formal, but also social and introspective exploration on the value of 'protection.' Dressing as a primary necessity for protecting one's body, shielding oneself as an architectural step of a secondary enclosure, the dwelling as a reflection of society and our identity. Where does protection begin, where does it end, and what remains? What form does it take?"








Four students from the Italian Lifestyle and Fashion course at the Polytechnic University of Milan, selected by WakeUp, will collaborate with Matete Martini and the prestigious Conceria Presot for three months, in preparation for a final exhibition at Parma Fairs.

Angelica Badini
Viktoria Klein
Giada Gattafoni
Marika Mista


Matete Martini's project, through the Futureyoungtalent method, will be developed by four students from the Polytechnic University of Milan for the Parma Fairs 2024, culminating in a final exhibition. The project's subject matter is proposed in collaboration with Conceria Presot, based in Pordenone since 1932, specializing in vegetable tanning of natural leather. Embracing sustainability and the Made in Italy ethos, Presot is currently the top choice for leading Italian and international fashion brands due to its technical characteristics and natural qualities.




Final exhibition 2024 Fiere di Parma







Protectively. Process - inside the work!






1-Border Margin


something inside something
Giada Gattafoni


Border margin analyses borders and margins and in particular investigates the inside-out concept. “What is the relationship between the inside and the outside?” That’s the question to start thinking of a new shape. It explores a non visible dimension of the space, that turns inside out to embrace itself.  A new dimension of the space created by confused and intricated  bushes and layers.
Skirt substructures history From the 16th to the 19th century, the evolution of female costume best exemplifies the changing times and the evolution of societies, introducing the inevitable substructure under the skirt , or rather a support that makes it depending on the countries and historical moments , more or less voluminous, imposing, regal and providing the woman with another "body", just like architecture does with the territory. The Verdugal The Verdugale appears for the first time in Spain, it was Princess Juana de Portugal who spread the fashion.In fact, to hide her second pregnancy, she created a wide skirt that widened from top to bottom and made rigid by the " verdugos " circles made of whalebone or rush.The verdugado faldiglia or guardinfante, which also spread to the rest of Europe starting from the 16th century, became a rigid substructure with different shapes depending on fashion: cone-shaped in Spain, wheel-shaped in France, drum-shaped in England.This structure gives an austere and rigid appearance to the female figure already constrained by the corset and ruff in the upper part. The Panier At the end of the 17th century, there is an accentuation of the bulge of the skirt in the back, obtained through the criarde , an underskirt made of rubberized canvas on which the seventeenth-century overskirt is pinned and held, the name of which is inspired by the rustling sound it produced at every movement of the lady. In shape it recalls the Renaissance conical structures with circles, but during the regency the oval shape changed, flattening and accentuating the sides, giving rise to the famous panier.

This concept evokes the shapes of the substructure of antique skits and costumes that women used to wear. In particular the structure expose the volumes that this object creates, distinguishing them in 3 layers, which represent the 3 main sections of the body from up to down: the mind, the gut and the feet, namely thought, impulse and grounding.






2-Camouflage


Observing our sorrounding - we are not taking accountability.
Marika Mista


Camouflage is the interaction between knowledge and observation relating to the feeling of being protected. Both of these concepts allow people to adapt to their surroundings and find comfort through acknowledging innate tendencies to escape society into Nature for a plethora of reasons ranging from the fear of accountability and scopophobia (fear of being monitored) to the dystopian mentality. Due to these factors, Nature's ability to camouflage became a leading topic of escapism within my research and thus evolved into bunker mentality in relationship to escapism from the world of being "a case study" amongst observers.






I was inspired by Polypores and shelf mushrooms' tendencies to grow upon other forms, thus creating a uniform layered effect in my first structure. The form factor merges the natural curvature with the manufactured supporting component's vertical, tubular block. They combine to camouflage whilst creating a hierarchy for those within the layers.

The second structure resembles artificial structures with a hint of curvature. The two interconnecting pieces form a uniform block. This form was inspired by bunkers being described as fortresses. The stability allows for comfort through knowing that they would withstand and attach, thus connecting the military camo pattern to associate camouflage with physical protection.



The last 3D shape combines elements from the previous two models to reject upon what I have learned during the construction process. It uses the layering reflect; however, all the pieces create a uniform column, thus bringing more structural stability. It strongly resembles the fungi's ability to communicate between separate sections due to the connections it has made.







3-Universal Language 


Encapsulate and adapt - universal
Viktoria Klein

Universal language symbolises guidance and security. . "What feels protective to you" took in different directions, combining the strongest parts of each visual study and trying what happen,  It allows to bring the powerful tool of sound in life, we manage emotions and feelings we adapt better to the environment, if we feel protected, covered by a gently Universal language that seems a brain structure protecting from the busy outside.






Safe Space The object is created by the rule that form follows function, as its funnels can literally be used to transmit a sound to the world. They not only give the object an extraordinary appearance, but also a voice that speaks. At the same time, it is a visualisation of the word "listen" and a reminder to actively listen to each other, to be someone who creates a protective environment for another person. It's the symbol of a safe space where you can be who you want to be without being judged.




Glowing Embrace The sculpture represents a fire which is strong and full of energy. It not only warms its surroundings, but also brings warmth and comfort, which are indicators of protection. On the other hand, a fire represents the complete opposite and something to be afraid of. For example, when it's out of control. It can destroy a lot in a matter of minutes. Either way fire always has a strong impact on human beings and nature and it is these opposites that make the meaning of fire very interesting.




4-Live memories


Transmit living messages
Angelica Badini

Live memories resembles a seashell, with a profound symbolic charge linked to the idea of preserving living memories. Its sinuous and enveloping shape evokes the secrets enclosed within shells, where the sea safeguards millennia-old tales.

The structure gently opens downward, forming a connection with the earth, which, like the sea, also preserves ancient stories and unforgettable signs. Every visitor can immerse themselves in their own memories, discovering a place where stories intertwine and blend like the waves of the sea.






The woman's chest is often associated with breastfeeding and symbolize nurturing and maternal care.
The maternal embrace is often seen as a gesture of protection. The mother is considered the protective figure and the gesture of the hug represents a safe shelter.



CONCERIA PRESOT RESIDENCY 17-19 NOVEMBER



Presot has always been a benchmark for the soles of formal footwear. It has been involved in the production of mountain boots since the conquest of K2 in 1954 when the Italian Expedition led by Ardito Desio reached the summit wearing Presot leather at their feet. The collaboration between Matete and the company involves supporting the artist in her work with the students by providing materials, knowledge, and company tours in operational spaces to give students a full on-site design experience and the necessary resources for the completion of the final project.


Day one: the listenin session - drying room. 


In the atmospheric confines of the drying room, a transcendent listening session unfolded, curated through auditory compositions meticulously crafted by the students. These compositions delved into the thematic core and the evolving artifacts, weaving a tapestry of contemplative exercises extending over a profound eight-minute auditory voyage. The diverse linguistic, geographical, and cultural nuances encapsulated within the audio reverberated, each voice becoming an interpreter of their conceptual yearning underlying the project.

In the serendipitous continuum of playback, a melange of disparate voices converged, harmonizing into an amalgamation that transcended the confines of individuality. This confluence, both continuous and stochastic, served as the crucible within which key thematic elements emerged, like elusive gems glinting amidst the auditory expanse.

The entirety of this auditory journey seamlessly melded with the ambient hum of production, akin to a subtle yet pervasive background noise. This auditory symphony, accompanied by the olfactory embrace of tannins, transformed the very act into a work of art. The resonance of diverse voices, interwoven with the rhythmic cadence of crafting, became an indelible component, destined to be an integral piece within the grand tapestry of the final collection. In this fusion of sensory elements, the sonic and aromatic dimensions coalesced to transcend the mere execution of a task, elevating it to the realm of a carefully orchestrated masterpiece.



The paper protype : prototypes studies for new forms of leather.

The design combined with the knowledge of the ecological production chain of Conceria Presot has materialized through the study of prototypes in red paper, which symbolically delve into the identity of leather, exploring new forms. These forms are the result of individual research conducted in collaboration with students. Here, within the walls of the Presot leather warehouse, they take shape. Around a table, individual tests, cuts, and the synthesis of a month of research have occurred through the creation of models



Day two: Knowledge and history, Conceria Presot is a factory of humanity.

The corporate identity comes from the family, the family from traditions, traditions from the preservation of memory, history, affection, and a tremendous love for work. Conceria Presot is born in a former paper mill, becoming the result of a family talent. It evolves through ecological measures, product quality, human attention, and its impact on the world. Presot is a factory of humanity


Four Leather prototypes studies > four ideas 

The Presot leather, a material that is durable and ecological, finds common use in both commercial and artistic applications. Primarily utilized in the luxury and footwear sectors, especially for protective purposes. In the development of prototypes, the first on-site processing finally takes place in a second phase. Cutting it is not an easy task; a small knife and a decisive cut, with two people holding the piece, give an idea of its resilience. But shaping it? Leather, through the use of a water vaporizer and thus moistening the surface, allows for the creation of folds and visual choices. By leaving them in place, the chosen form is retained.



STAU





Balance





Fo rte





Hatha Soutien







GUEST TALKS 2023 POLITECNICO








22 November 2023 Online

Riccardo Rizzetto




That extra layer: the outermost surface as a litmus paper for experimentations



http://riccardorizzetto.com







︎ A very interesting story about an innovative approach to develop works in various fields. His way of investigating the past and taking inspiration from the “greats” of the past is fascinating. In a world projected into the future he makes us understand the importance of analyzing the past and who before us had the same interests as us.


︎ A very inspiring person who was able to communicate his introspective side thanks to sneak peeks on his background and on his life, that helped us understand his work today(as his story on bad calligraphy that he was able to transform into pieces of art).
“layers of the past that come to the surface in the present in a poetic visual narration”


︎ Brilliant way of taking a concept such as layers and building upon it to present ones work. His approach to design shines when looking at the practice as a whole. All the projects are connected throu the reapering forms of layers ranging from conception to execution. Truly a fascinating process to witness and implement it into our work.

︎ As an artist he has his own way to create and the emotional/sentimental aspects are very important for him and he really thinks of his feelings when doing the artwork accompanied by the impulses he transmits through them. “Just one word can change the complete perception of an object which is scary but also a challenge for the artist” was a phasing for instance.




5 December 2023 6.30 pm - Online 


Chiara Terraneo


connect to:
https://meet.google.com/eyx-jknj-kuc










The theft of the skin: the snake attribute and its character, a forbidden childish challenge. But also something else



https://chiaraterraneo.com/






14 December 2023 Politecnico
Come raggiungerci: https://shorturl.at/sFSTW


Nathe Jobe
Gianluca Pegolo
https://www.reebok.eu/

Giorgio Di Palma e Dario Miale

https://sanosano.it/



Pino Pipoli

https://www.pinopipoli.com/





Ci siamo conosciuti da Matete.